A week in the Algarve, Portugal
The Algarve that most visitors experience is busy, polished, and built for tourism, this certainly wasn’t what we were looking for. We wanted quieter places, slower days, and towns where life moves at its own pace. To find them, we avoided the heavily developed central Algarve and focused instead on exploring the western and eastern regions. Renting a car was essential, allowing us to move easily between small villages, beaches, and countryside.
We visited some of the well-known beaches, drawn by their natural beauty, but most of our time was spent in everyday moments: drinking coffee in tiled village squares, breathing in the scent of orange blossoms, and hearing shutters creak open at first light. We stayed three nights in Luz, where the southern coastline feels softer and less hurried, before heading east to Tavira, a town of cobbled streets and wide salt flats stretching toward the sea. Our accommodation was about ten minutes outside Tavira, which was absolutely beautiful and so peaceful, but in hindsight a little inconvenient for those who want to be within walking distance of the beach.
This guide follows that journey and offers a way to experience a quieter, more genuine side of the Algarve.
Western Algarve
Places to Visit, Things to Do, and Where to Eat
For our first three nights, we stayed in Luz, a quieter town that struck a good balance. Located in the Western region of the Algarve, it’s a small, laid-back place, close enough to easily reach some of the region’s famous beaches, like Praia do Camilo. Our accommodation was right in the center, so we could wander down winding streets for coffee, take a short walk for a swim in the (very chilly) ocean, or head out for an unhurried seafood dinner. Life felt easy there, the kind of place where you could slow down, breathe, and actually settle in, rather than feeling the need to rush from one thing to the next. One evening, we made our way to the must-visit sunset spot here, where the golden light spilled across the cliffs and ocean, followed by dinner at a cozy local restaurant called Arte.
Carvoeiro
Carvoeiro is a charming coastal town known for its picturesque cliffs and crystal-clear waters. With its vibrant village center, it offers a mix of relaxed beach days and lively local dining.
Things to do
•Boneca's Cave - stand in queue, its worth it
•Stop for a drink in the sun at Boneca Bar
•Praia de Vale Covo lookout - situated along a beautiful coastal trail
•Explore the town of Carvoeiro - plenty shops, restaurants, bars and of course the picturesque beach
• We had lunch at Restaurante Casa da Tocha, about a 20-minute drive from Carvoeiro. While we didn’t explore the town it’s located in, the food was outstanding and incredibly well-priced!
Lagos
Lagos is a historic town with a rich maritime past, where cobbled streets are lined with stunning, colorful tiled buildings. Its lively atmosphere blends cultural charm, beautiful cliffside beaches, and vibrant dining spots.
Things to do:
•Coffee from Black and White
•Quick snack at Restaurante Casa do Prego
•Late lunch at Restaurante Azimute Lagos
•Wander the streets - they’re charming
Book a Sea Safari with Ocean Blue Portugal
What a day. We kicked things off with a quick coffee at Everyday People, just around the corner from the marina, great little spot to fuel up before the adventure. Then it was off to the boat, and honestly, the tour was amazing. Definitely something we won’t forget anytime soon.
The weather couldn’t have been better, which really made the whole experience. It’s one of those things you want to check ahead of time to make sure you catch it on a good day. The trip lasted around three hours, and while we loved every minute of it, we were left wishing it had gone on just a bit longer. The coastline and the wildlife were just stunning.
After we got back to shore, we headed to Praia do Caneiros beach for a bit, and then wrapped things up with a late lunch (or early dinner or somewhere in between!) at Casa Rei das Praias (book in advance to get a seat). Sitting there, overlooking the beach with good food and that salty sea breeze, it was the perfect way to end the day.
Sunrise at Camilo Beach, Lagos
Watching the sunrise at Camilo Beach offers a rare chance to experience its stunning beauty in peace, before the crowds arrive. With the soft light illuminating the cliffs and the calm sea, it’s a quiet, personal moment that captures the beach’s true charm.
Eastern Algarve
Where to Stay, Places to Visit, Things to Do
and Where to Eat
For the other 3 nights of this trip, we stayed at Hospedaria, just outside Tavira, a spot that felt worlds away from the usual tourist crowds. Located in the quieter eastern Algarve, the peaceful surroundings gave us a much-needed break, while Tavira’s historic center and nearby beaches were only a short drive away. Our accommodation was a beautiful, restful base that allowed us to embrace the slower rhythm of the area. It was the kind of place where you could truly unwind and savour the moment.
Places to Visit and Things to do
The eastern Algarve offers a quieter, more understated charm, and these spots are well worth a visit. Santa Luzia is a small fishing village known for its octopus dishes and relaxed waterfront. Cabanas has a sleepy, low-key vibe, with a boardwalk and easy access to the beach by boat. Cacela Velha, a personal highlight, is perched above the coast with incredible views, whitewashed houses, and a timeless feel that makes it especially memorable. For something a little different and a day on the beach, take the short ferry or private boat taxi to Praia da Armona, a long, sandy stretch with clear waters and a slow, peaceful rhythm that’s perfect for a full day of unwinding.
Where to Eat
On our first night, we stayed in and had dinner at our accommodation, choosing the local specialty — octopus — which was cooked beautifully and full of flavour. It’s a well-known dish in this region, and definitely worth trying at least once. In Cacela Velha, we had some of the freshest oysters of the trip, simply prepared and enjoyed with a view. Another standout meal was at Mesa Farta, a relaxed spot with great food that we’d gladly return to.
Conclusion
By staying away from the busier central stretch and spending time in the quieter western and eastern parts, we found places that felt genuine, where the days moved a little slower and the moments stuck with us. It wasn’t about ticking off sights, but about noticing the light, the food, the quiet streets, and letting that be enough.
We’ve put this guide together in the hope it helps you shape your own trip. If you have any questions, we’re happy to help and if you think someone else might enjoy it, feel free to share it with them too.
